After a year of domestic upheavals and sojourns in hospital, it's time to relax with a little sun and sea on our favourite Greek island, Kalymnos...
This will be our twelfth annual visit and, as readers of this blog may remember, I have a ritual that is unerringly observed: when we arrive at Artistico taverna in Emporios, I take off my watch, pull out the winder and it stays off until it's time to return to reality...
And, of course, Snoopy is always glad to give his little arms a rest!
While we are away (and probably not able to blog efficiently) I will be leaving you with a few Greek Pick of the Pixs to amuse you...
Showing posts with label Artistico. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Artistico. Show all posts
Wednesday, 21 August 2013
Saturday, 25 August 2012
GREEK GETAWAY
Following the recent publication of revealing photographs of Prince Harry losing his shirt (and pants) in a game of strip billiards in Las Vegas, we were surprised to discover that the Prince, in an attempt to avoid further embarrassing exposure, was holed up at our favourite summer vacation-spot – Emborios on the Greek island of Kalymnos – and was clearly taking a relaxed view of the the scandal in the popular Artistico taverna. In the absence of the world's paparazzi, His Royal Highness happily posed for David's camera...
Imagine our surprise when, later that evening, a further contingent of the Royal family turned up for an informal get-together with locals and tourists: Will and Kate...
...and the princes' grandparents...
Artistico's resident magical entertainer was especially honoured to be granted an audience: an anouncement of his appointment to the long-defunct post of Royal Jester is now awaited with anticipation...
Imagine our surprise when, later that evening, a further contingent of the Royal family turned up for an informal get-together with locals and tourists: Will and Kate...
Artistico's resident magical entertainer was especially honoured to be granted an audience: an anouncement of his appointment to the long-defunct post of Royal Jester is now awaited with anticipation...
Wednesday, 21 July 2010
MY BIG FAT GREEK BIRTHDAY
As I mentioned last Wednesday, I celebrated my first (well, my sixty-first) birthday in my Greek house (that is to say, the house that I stay in when I go to Greece!) in Emporios on the island of Kalymnos.
The party was held, naturally, at Artistico Restaurant, where Yorgos and Irini Glinatsi gave me this utterly scrumptious and uniquely personalised birthday cake...
Mercifully, the other sixty candles were omitted for reasons of health and safety: i.e. the risk of either setting fire to the entire village or me going into cardiac arrest whilst trying to blow them out!
As is traditional on such occasions, everyone else in the restaurant got a slice (which, obviously, I tried not to be too mean-spirited about) but, luckily, I got a corner-piece which I decided was the best option since it clearly fell within my healthy 'five-a-day' allocation!
The party was held, naturally, at Artistico Restaurant, where Yorgos and Irini Glinatsi gave me this utterly scrumptious and uniquely personalised birthday cake...
Mercifully, the other sixty candles were omitted for reasons of health and safety: i.e. the risk of either setting fire to the entire village or me going into cardiac arrest whilst trying to blow them out!
As is traditional on such occasions, everyone else in the restaurant got a slice (which, obviously, I tried not to be too mean-spirited about) but, luckily, I got a corner-piece which I decided was the best option since it clearly fell within my healthy 'five-a-day' allocation!
Labels:
Artistico,
birthdays,
Glinatsi Family,
Greece,
Kalymnos
Thursday, 29 October 2009
DIZZY DANCING
Talking about dancing...
As anyone who has ever visited our Greek island of choice - Kalymnos - will know we are habitués of George and Irene Glinatsi's taverna, Artistico.
And, as I've mentioned before, Artistico is a place where people contribute to the entertainment on an often nightly basis. Regular visitors who play guitar will bring their own instrument (or borrow one of George's) and will play - sometimes solos, sometimes duets, sometimes something Greek, sometimes something from their own musical culture.
Then there's also our good friend Roger who brings his kazoo and spoons and has been known to play both - simultaneously! But it's OK, he's not there year all year round! Sorry, Roger, only joking!
And, as usually happens in Greece when music is played, people dance!
Even I - in those now far off years when I was fitter and suppler - was occasionally known to take to the floor: memorably on one occasion (and I fear that there may be photos somewhere to prove it) engaging in a faux-fandango with Irene while wearing (don't ask why; ouzo can make a man do ludicrous things!) an outsize Pint-of-Guinness-hat... But, again, don't worry: I'm not there all round either!
David normally restricts himself to his regular magic performances, but maybe once a year - and this year it was on our Last Night - he will also trip the light fantastic. And when he does, it is an experience not to be missed!
So, here's David's singular interpretation of a traditional Greek dance with a little assistance/encouragement from George Glinatsi.
My thanks to David for permission to blog this and I hope that it brings a smile to your day!
Once again, in the interests of the Kalymnian Tourist Industry, David isn't at Artistico all year round!
Happily for me, however, I've had him around for 365 days a year, for almost two decades!
As anyone who has ever visited our Greek island of choice - Kalymnos - will know we are habitués of George and Irene Glinatsi's taverna, Artistico.
And, as I've mentioned before, Artistico is a place where people contribute to the entertainment on an often nightly basis. Regular visitors who play guitar will bring their own instrument (or borrow one of George's) and will play - sometimes solos, sometimes duets, sometimes something Greek, sometimes something from their own musical culture.
Then there's also our good friend Roger who brings his kazoo and spoons and has been known to play both - simultaneously! But it's OK, he's not there year all year round! Sorry, Roger, only joking!
And, as usually happens in Greece when music is played, people dance!
Even I - in those now far off years when I was fitter and suppler - was occasionally known to take to the floor: memorably on one occasion (and I fear that there may be photos somewhere to prove it) engaging in a faux-fandango with Irene while wearing (don't ask why; ouzo can make a man do ludicrous things!) an outsize Pint-of-Guinness-hat... But, again, don't worry: I'm not there all round either!
David normally restricts himself to his regular magic performances, but maybe once a year - and this year it was on our Last Night - he will also trip the light fantastic. And when he does, it is an experience not to be missed!
So, here's David's singular interpretation of a traditional Greek dance with a little assistance/encouragement from George Glinatsi.
My thanks to David for permission to blog this and I hope that it brings a smile to your day!
Once again, in the interests of the Kalymnian Tourist Industry, David isn't at Artistico all year round!
Happily for me, however, I've had him around for 365 days a year, for almost two decades!
Thursday, 10 September 2009
IT'S A SMALL WORLD
We say it often enough whenever coincidence strikes and we meet unexpected people in unlikely places: "Well, well, what a small world!"
Over the last couple of months I've had several uncanny experiences of this kind.
On 19 July, halfway across the pontoon bridge that - for one day only - spans the Canale della Giudecca as part of the Festa del Redentore, I am accosted by Robert and Kerry, a couple of Australian yachts-people whose boat has dropped anchor a couple of times in Emporios harbour on the Greek island of Kalymnos when we have been holidaying there.
From a remote corner of one small island to a singular, transient spot on another small island... What are the chances?
Then, a month later, I'm sitting in the bar at Artistico in the said Kalymnian village of Emporios and my voice is recognised by another visitor (on a day trip from neighbouring Telendos) who turns out to be actress Cathy Bass whom, fourteen years ago in 1995, I interviewed when she was appearing in an open-air, walk-about production of The Hound of the Baskervilles and I was presenting Radio 4's arts magazine, Kaleidoscope.
Here's Cathy (right) as the formidable and rather spooky Mrs Barrymore, with Catriona Martin as Symonds the maid, in a more recent production at Peel Castle on the Isle of Man...

I can, happily, report that Cathy doesn't look anywhere near as scary when she's on holiday!
Then, the following week, just as I'm emerging from the sea and on my way to shower and dress before being collected for a day out with some friends on the island, a guy comes up to me and said, "Hello, I'm Pooh!"
"Who?" you ask. Pooh!
I'll explain: in my final year at school, I wrote, directed and appeared in a vaguely satirical adaptation of A A Milne's 'Winnie-the-Pooh' stories. Entitled The Lost Childhood, this conceit - inspired by Jonathan Miller's 1966 revisionist TV version of Alice in Wonderland - had the toy animals of Christopher Robin's nursery translated into eccentric human characters with myself (left) in the role of Eeyore.

Pooh had been played by Brian Denton (he's the one in the middle with the 'P' on his jumper) with fellow cast members, David Boulton (Rabbit), Ian Carter (as a rather mature Christopher Robin) and, sitting, Robert Hendry as Piglet.
Brian had read my blog and knew that I visited Emporios and, since he was staying at another resort on the island, had come to see whether I was currently in residence. And so there was Pooh (sans jumper) face to face with a dripping wet Eeyore...
It was the first time we had met in 43 years!
Obviously I must have retained enough of my lugubrious Eeyore expression for him to recognise his fellow thesp over four decades later.
Now, what exercises my mind is the fact that if Brian had arrived just fifteen minutes later we would missed one another.
In fact, I often wonder whether these so-called 'small world' encounters might not potentially happen very much more often but for those quirks of timing that cause us to miss possible connections because we are simply too early or too late or change our plans or, as the poet, Robert Frost put it, take the road less - or, perhaps, more travelled...
Images: Redentore bridge by Brian Sibley; scene from The Hound of the Baskervilles by John Phipp, IOM Photographic Society; scene from The Lost Childhood, unknown photographer!
Over the last couple of months I've had several uncanny experiences of this kind.
On 19 July, halfway across the pontoon bridge that - for one day only - spans the Canale della Giudecca as part of the Festa del Redentore, I am accosted by Robert and Kerry, a couple of Australian yachts-people whose boat has dropped anchor a couple of times in Emporios harbour on the Greek island of Kalymnos when we have been holidaying there.
Then, a month later, I'm sitting in the bar at Artistico in the said Kalymnian village of Emporios and my voice is recognised by another visitor (on a day trip from neighbouring Telendos) who turns out to be actress Cathy Bass whom, fourteen years ago in 1995, I interviewed when she was appearing in an open-air, walk-about production of The Hound of the Baskervilles and I was presenting Radio 4's arts magazine, Kaleidoscope.
Here's Cathy (right) as the formidable and rather spooky Mrs Barrymore, with Catriona Martin as Symonds the maid, in a more recent production at Peel Castle on the Isle of Man...

I can, happily, report that Cathy doesn't look anywhere near as scary when she's on holiday!
Then, the following week, just as I'm emerging from the sea and on my way to shower and dress before being collected for a day out with some friends on the island, a guy comes up to me and said, "Hello, I'm Pooh!"
"Who?" you ask. Pooh!
I'll explain: in my final year at school, I wrote, directed and appeared in a vaguely satirical adaptation of A A Milne's 'Winnie-the-Pooh' stories. Entitled The Lost Childhood, this conceit - inspired by Jonathan Miller's 1966 revisionist TV version of Alice in Wonderland - had the toy animals of Christopher Robin's nursery translated into eccentric human characters with myself (left) in the role of Eeyore.

Pooh had been played by Brian Denton (he's the one in the middle with the 'P' on his jumper) with fellow cast members, David Boulton (Rabbit), Ian Carter (as a rather mature Christopher Robin) and, sitting, Robert Hendry as Piglet.
Brian had read my blog and knew that I visited Emporios and, since he was staying at another resort on the island, had come to see whether I was currently in residence. And so there was Pooh (sans jumper) face to face with a dripping wet Eeyore...
It was the first time we had met in 43 years!
Obviously I must have retained enough of my lugubrious Eeyore expression for him to recognise his fellow thesp over four decades later.
Now, what exercises my mind is the fact that if Brian had arrived just fifteen minutes later we would missed one another.
In fact, I often wonder whether these so-called 'small world' encounters might not potentially happen very much more often but for those quirks of timing that cause us to miss possible connections because we are simply too early or too late or change our plans or, as the poet, Robert Frost put it, take the road less - or, perhaps, more travelled...
TWO roads diverged in a yellow wood,
And sorry I could not travel both
And be one traveler, long I stood
And looked down one as far as I could
To where it bent in the undergrowth;
Then took the other, as just as fair,
And having perhaps the better claim,
Because it was grassy and wanted wear;
Though as for that the passing there
Had worn them really about the same,
And both that morning equally lay
In leaves no step had trodden black.
Oh, I kept the first for another day!
Yet knowing how way leads on to way,
I doubted if I should ever come back.
I shall be telling this with a sigh
Somewhere ages and ages hence:
Two roads diverged in a wood, and I—
I took the one less traveled by,
And that has made all the difference.
And sorry I could not travel both
And be one traveler, long I stood
And looked down one as far as I could
To where it bent in the undergrowth;
Then took the other, as just as fair,
And having perhaps the better claim,
Because it was grassy and wanted wear;
Though as for that the passing there
Had worn them really about the same,
And both that morning equally lay
In leaves no step had trodden black.
Oh, I kept the first for another day!
Yet knowing how way leads on to way,
I doubted if I should ever come back.
I shall be telling this with a sigh
Somewhere ages and ages hence:
Two roads diverged in a wood, and I—
I took the one less traveled by,
And that has made all the difference.
Images: Redentore bridge by Brian Sibley; scene from The Hound of the Baskervilles by John Phipp, IOM Photographic Society; scene from The Lost Childhood, unknown photographer!
Labels:
A A Milne,
Artistico,
bridges,
childhood,
Emporios,
Festa del Redentore,
Greece,
Venice,
Winnie-the-Pooh
Friday, 26 December 2008
VENETIAN ENCOUNTERS
It is, as the cliché runs, a Small World...
On Christmas Eve, we were walking along a street in Venice, late at night, when we were accosted by an Italian couple who said to David, "Excuse us, but we met on Kalymnos in August: you performed magic for us at the Artistico taverna in Emporios and your friend, here, used to sit under the trees reading..."
Now, apart from the extraordinary fact that they identified us by the light of the shop windows of Prada and Fendi when we were all muffled up against the cold in coats and scarves and hats and yet when we last met - in a remote corner of a tiny Greek island - we were all in shorts and T-shirts, BUT they live in Milan and come to Venice every year - for one night only - to attend the Christmas Eve Mass in San Marco... And yet we happen to meet: what are the odds...?
Of course, Venice is - and always has been - a city of encounters...
Whilst tourists - being intent on seeing the sites - tend not to see the residents (who, in turn, do their best to ignore the tourists), there are places where their worlds, inevitably, coincide...
People meet in bars and cafes in campos and on bridges. They stop to talk: their voices ricocheting off ancient walls and mingling with the lap and slap of water in the canals, the chitter-chatter of heels on flag-stones, the murmuring of pigeons and the accordion-accompanied serenading of gondoliers...






Images: Brian Sibley & David Weeks © 2007/8
For more Venice imagery, visit my website to view the album Venice Observed and then follow the links at the foot of that page to three further albums of photographs.
On Christmas Eve, we were walking along a street in Venice, late at night, when we were accosted by an Italian couple who said to David, "Excuse us, but we met on Kalymnos in August: you performed magic for us at the Artistico taverna in Emporios and your friend, here, used to sit under the trees reading..."
Now, apart from the extraordinary fact that they identified us by the light of the shop windows of Prada and Fendi when we were all muffled up against the cold in coats and scarves and hats and yet when we last met - in a remote corner of a tiny Greek island - we were all in shorts and T-shirts, BUT they live in Milan and come to Venice every year - for one night only - to attend the Christmas Eve Mass in San Marco... And yet we happen to meet: what are the odds...?
Of course, Venice is - and always has been - a city of encounters...
Whilst tourists - being intent on seeing the sites - tend not to see the residents (who, in turn, do their best to ignore the tourists), there are places where their worlds, inevitably, coincide...
People meet in bars and cafes in campos and on bridges. They stop to talk: their voices ricocheting off ancient walls and mingling with the lap and slap of water in the canals, the chitter-chatter of heels on flag-stones, the murmuring of pigeons and the accordion-accompanied serenading of gondoliers...
Images: Brian Sibley & David Weeks © 2007/8
For more Venice imagery, visit my website to view the album Venice Observed and then follow the links at the foot of that page to three further albums of photographs.
Sunday, 21 September 2008
IN A STEW
I seem to be getting a reputation for being something of a goat-fancier...
Sheila and Roger have just sent me a story and accompanying (I assume) jokey image from the internet pages of First News
Still on the subject of goats: while on Kalymnos, I was reminded, yet again, how differently the Greek islanders view animals (which are raised to be killed and eaten) from those of us who live in societies where meat is disguised as pre-packed, shrink-wrapped, pinky stuff that comes from the supermarket.
Consider this little fellow who escaped from the nearby field and who is obviously trying not to read what is on the menu board outside Artistico taverna...
As it happens, that particular goat lived to see another day.
This one, however, got itself into a bit of stew...

Thanks to David for taking the pictures, Sheila (again) for help in writing the Greek for 'goat stew' and to Roger (also again) for allowing us to photograph his dinner!
Images: David Weeks © 2008
Sheila and Roger have just sent me a story and accompanying (I assume) jokey image from the internet pages of First News
First News, by the way, is (and I quote) "the award-winning newspaper for KIDS"! Natch!
The animals were spotted in a police cell in Africa when a politician was having a look round.
The politician, Claude Nyamugabo, was on a routine visit to see prisoners in the Democratic Republic of Congo. But he was astonished to find one of the cells packed out with 12 goats. The animals were due to appear in court charged with being sold, against the law, by the side of the road.
Mr Nyamugabo immediately ordered that the goats should be released from prison. He went on to say that the police had “serious gaps” in their knowledge. He ordered them to go for more training.
First News wonders what the goats’ punishment would have been if they had been found guilty. Perhaps they would have been baaaaaanned from grazing for six months.
Still on the subject of goats: while on Kalymnos, I was reminded, yet again, how differently the Greek islanders view animals (which are raised to be killed and eaten) from those of us who live in societies where meat is disguised as pre-packed, shrink-wrapped, pinky stuff that comes from the supermarket.
Consider this little fellow who escaped from the nearby field and who is obviously trying not to read what is on the menu board outside Artistico taverna...
As it happens, that particular goat lived to see another day.
This one, however, got itself into a bit of stew...
Thanks to David for taking the pictures, Sheila (again) for help in writing the Greek for 'goat stew' and to Roger (also again) for allowing us to photograph his dinner!
Images: David Weeks © 2008
Saturday, 6 September 2008
MISSING THEM ALREADY
Just a few of the things I shall miss when, in a couple of days, we head for home...
Menu boards...

Jolly little tourist cars...

Exotic flowers...

Lazy cats...

Kalymnian Salads...

Sunlight through fig-leaves...

And fresh-baked figs...

The view from the beach...
Exquisite sunrises...

And glorious sunsets...

But, of course, they will remain as memories...

Images: Brian Sibley & David Weeks © 2007-8
Menu boards...
Jolly little tourist cars...
Exotic flowers...
Lazy cats...
Kalymnian Salads...
Sunlight through fig-leaves...
And fresh-baked figs...
The view from the beach...
Exquisite sunrises...
And glorious sunsets...
But, of course, they will remain as memories...
Images: Brian Sibley & David Weeks © 2007-8
Tuesday, 12 August 2008
SAME OLD SAME OLD
It's probably a gross simplification, but I think there are basically two kinds of holiday: the kind where You Have to Do Things and the kind where You Don't!
Every time we visit Venice we know that there are churches we've never got around to visiting (featuring Tiepolos we've never looked at it) or Palazzi where exhibitions are being held that one really ought to see or This or That or Whatever.
On Kalymnos, however, there is nothing that has to be seen or done that we haven't seen or done at least once before. There is the monastery - well, there are several, naturally, but most are inaccessibly perched on precipitous mountain tops beyond the reach of anything other than goats or, presumably, monks...

There is the ruined castle...

A batch of abandoned, sail-less windmills...

And the scant remains of the Early Christian Baths (seen here being visited by a tourist)...

There is, of course, the hustling-bustling port of Pothia with its Cathedral, Diving Museum and Sponge Factory (the kind you wash with not the Victoria Jam variety)...

But any later than 10.00 am and the place is hotter than Tophet so, after a coffee in the Kafennia (watching senior Kalymnians playing chess) and a quick visit to the local bakers for some home made bread and biscuits, it is time to escape from rather than explore...
One is left, therefore, with the other strenuous option of passing the time here in Emporios...

You wake leisurely to the gentle sound of the sea lapping on the shore beneath the bedroom window; enjoy a leisurely coffee and a slice of fresh watermelon for breakfast; take a leisurely stroll the exhausting ten yards (!) to the beach and make the tiring decision about which tamarisk tree to sit under; read a page or two of a book; doze; have another coffee; listen to the ever-busy cicadas; doze again; read half a page; doze once more; maybe take a short stroll (it's really not obligatory) to the bougainvillea-surrounded church...

...then have a Greek salad for lunch, followed by the requiste siesta; wake up in time for a nice leisurely cup of tea and a Kalymnian biscuit (or three); toying - possibly, but only if one really feels like it - with thinking about writing something; have an early evening drink; leisurely contemplate what maight be nice for dinner; read a paragraph or two; have a chat; have another drink; have supper; listen to George Glinati playing the guitar; watch David doing magic for the patrons of the Artistico; have a final drink and - somewhere about 1.00 am or, maybe, 2.30 it really doesn't matter - toddle up to bed and fall asleep to the gentle sound of the sea lapping on the shore...
So, you seen, absolutely no pressure!
Every time we visit Venice we know that there are churches we've never got around to visiting (featuring Tiepolos we've never looked at it) or Palazzi where exhibitions are being held that one really ought to see or This or That or Whatever.
On Kalymnos, however, there is nothing that has to be seen or done that we haven't seen or done at least once before. There is the monastery - well, there are several, naturally, but most are inaccessibly perched on precipitous mountain tops beyond the reach of anything other than goats or, presumably, monks...
There is the ruined castle...
A batch of abandoned, sail-less windmills...
And the scant remains of the Early Christian Baths (seen here being visited by a tourist)...
There is, of course, the hustling-bustling port of Pothia with its Cathedral, Diving Museum and Sponge Factory (the kind you wash with not the Victoria Jam variety)...
But any later than 10.00 am and the place is hotter than Tophet so, after a coffee in the Kafennia (watching senior Kalymnians playing chess) and a quick visit to the local bakers for some home made bread and biscuits, it is time to escape from rather than explore...
One is left, therefore, with the other strenuous option of passing the time here in Emporios...
You wake leisurely to the gentle sound of the sea lapping on the shore beneath the bedroom window; enjoy a leisurely coffee and a slice of fresh watermelon for breakfast; take a leisurely stroll the exhausting ten yards (!) to the beach and make the tiring decision about which tamarisk tree to sit under; read a page or two of a book; doze; have another coffee; listen to the ever-busy cicadas; doze again; read half a page; doze once more; maybe take a short stroll (it's really not obligatory) to the bougainvillea-surrounded church...
...then have a Greek salad for lunch, followed by the requiste siesta; wake up in time for a nice leisurely cup of tea and a Kalymnian biscuit (or three); toying - possibly, but only if one really feels like it - with thinking about writing something; have an early evening drink; leisurely contemplate what maight be nice for dinner; read a paragraph or two; have a chat; have another drink; have supper; listen to George Glinati playing the guitar; watch David doing magic for the patrons of the Artistico; have a final drink and - somewhere about 1.00 am or, maybe, 2.30 it really doesn't matter - toddle up to bed and fall asleep to the gentle sound of the sea lapping on the shore...
So, you seen, absolutely no pressure!
Sunday, 12 August 2007
GRECIAN 2007
And - thanks to David for fixing and paying for everything - (hopefully) no more worries either...
Those worries - which I am leaving behind, snuggled up for warmth to my overdraft and credit-card bills - include a total absence of work in the rest of the year; looming examinations/explorations for my Psoriatic Arthritis (with rheumatologists and dermatologists); steroid injections in both wrists for Carpal Tunnel Syndrome; and an angiogram to find out precisely what is going on in my heart (following an abnormal result from the recent echocardiogram); all of which is, I think, more than enough to be going on with...
Anyway, my aim while we're away ("away" being Emporios on the Greek island of Kalymnos, via Athens, staying - once again - at 'Artistico' with the Glinatsi family) is to try and get some rest and relaxation in the hope of recovering from some of the traumas, trials and tribulations of the past twelve months and to get myself into a rather better frame of mind and body to face the aforementioned ordeals awaiting me on my return.
I am also hoping to do a bit of what (in my case) is laughingly known as "creative writing" - including a children's novel that I have been trying to write, on and off, for the past year.
All of which means that daily blogs will be a little different for the next month... All will be revealed, in due course!
I hope you'll still drop by from time to time; but, please, just remember that our Internet connection will be dial-up and not always accessible, so blog arrivals may be a little erratic and it may take longer than usual for any comments to get published.
So, for now, I'll say Καλὸ ταξείδι! (Kaló taxídi), which is Greek for Bon Voyage!
Image: © Brian Sibley & David Weeks, 2007
Thursday, 28 September 2006
WORLD WIDE LUNCH
It’s two weeks, yesterday, since we left Kalymnos and the tan and, more importantly, the feeling of contentment are already beginning to fade…
But the memories live on and one of them - extremely personal to me, as it happens - is out there for all to see --- on the World Wide Web!
It was Wednesday, 30th August and I came up from a hard day on the beach and ordered a spot of lunch at Artistico...

I decided on a Greek salad, a plate of tzatziki and another of tomato patties and cheese balls. A short while afterwards, a selection of food approximating to my order was brought out on a tray and carried right past me to a table on the other side of the restaurant where it was artfully arranged and then photographed by a young man with a lot of serious camera equipment…
In a London restaurant I would, by now, have been hurtling towards my short-fuse explosive mood, but this is on Kalymnos - in Emporios - at Artistico… With an extreme effort I managed a raised eyebrow and a quizzical look…
Irene Glinatsi hurried over to reassure me: yes, that was, indeed, my lunch she explained, but the young man with the camera furiously clicking away was putting together images for a French web-site on Kalymnos and he wanted a few shots of some typical dishes on the Artistico menu and my lunch, apparently, fitted the bill...
The photographic shoot went on for a few minutes and then the young man relocated and served my food with sufficient aplomb to suggest that, if other work fails, he could reasonably hope to hold down a job in a French restaurant!
He also gave me details of the web site on which my lunch was to make its guest appearance.

Called Kalyrock.com it is primarily intended for rock climbers (not being one myself I’ve never previously mentioned that Kalymnos is, in fact, an ace climbing resort) but which contains many pretty pictures of this lovely island.
Yesterday in London, it being grey and overcast, I found myself missing the sun, sea and sky of our Greek paradise so much that I decided to go to Kalyrock.com and visit my lunch…

Do you know, I could almost taste it…
Then, late last evening, we telephoned Artistico in order to wish Nikola Glinatsi a happy 25th birthday - talking to Nikola and Irene and hearing all the news from Emporios only served to confirm my severe pangs of holiday-home-sickness!
Here's a photo of Nikola having just returned from a fishing trip with a particularly impressive haul of local sea urchins * which reminds me of another of those useful Greek sayings: "If you don’t wet your arse - you won’t eat fish!"
* Sea urchins are a much-prized delicacy, but one which I confess to having passed on once I'd discovered that the spiny outer cases continue moving for a quite some while after the creatures have been cut open and had their insides consumed. Call me old-fashioned, if you will, but being a wishy-washy city-dweller, I'm afraid I tend to prefer food that stays still when it's on the plate!
But the memories live on and one of them - extremely personal to me, as it happens - is out there for all to see --- on the World Wide Web!
It was Wednesday, 30th August and I came up from a hard day on the beach and ordered a spot of lunch at Artistico...

I decided on a Greek salad, a plate of tzatziki and another of tomato patties and cheese balls. A short while afterwards, a selection of food approximating to my order was brought out on a tray and carried right past me to a table on the other side of the restaurant where it was artfully arranged and then photographed by a young man with a lot of serious camera equipment…
In a London restaurant I would, by now, have been hurtling towards my short-fuse explosive mood, but this is on Kalymnos - in Emporios - at Artistico… With an extreme effort I managed a raised eyebrow and a quizzical look…
Irene Glinatsi hurried over to reassure me: yes, that was, indeed, my lunch she explained, but the young man with the camera furiously clicking away was putting together images for a French web-site on Kalymnos and he wanted a few shots of some typical dishes on the Artistico menu and my lunch, apparently, fitted the bill...
The photographic shoot went on for a few minutes and then the young man relocated and served my food with sufficient aplomb to suggest that, if other work fails, he could reasonably hope to hold down a job in a French restaurant!
He also gave me details of the web site on which my lunch was to make its guest appearance.

Called Kalyrock.com it is primarily intended for rock climbers (not being one myself I’ve never previously mentioned that Kalymnos is, in fact, an ace climbing resort) but which contains many pretty pictures of this lovely island.
Yesterday in London, it being grey and overcast, I found myself missing the sun, sea and sky of our Greek paradise so much that I decided to go to Kalyrock.com and visit my lunch…

Do you know, I could almost taste it…
Then, late last evening, we telephoned Artistico in order to wish Nikola Glinatsi a happy 25th birthday - talking to Nikola and Irene and hearing all the news from Emporios only served to confirm my severe pangs of holiday-home-sickness!Here's a photo of Nikola having just returned from a fishing trip with a particularly impressive haul of local sea urchins * which reminds me of another of those useful Greek sayings: "If you don’t wet your arse - you won’t eat fish!"
* Sea urchins are a much-prized delicacy, but one which I confess to having passed on once I'd discovered that the spiny outer cases continue moving for a quite some while after the creatures have been cut open and had their insides consumed. Call me old-fashioned, if you will, but being a wishy-washy city-dweller, I'm afraid I tend to prefer food that stays still when it's on the plate!
Labels:
Artistico,
Emporios,
Glinatsi Family,
Greece,
Kalymnos
Wednesday, 13 September 2006
Monday, 11 September 2006
PASSING THOUGHT
As in previous years, when I arrived in Emporios, I took off and stopped my watch…

Unfortunately, time did not stand still and a month has passed even without watching the watch…
Everyone is conscious of our forthcoming departure: George spent some time yesterday evening reflecting on the nature of time and the relative speed or slowness of its passing and Themelis was driven off to Pothia in order to start school today so we have already said farewell to the wild-boy of Emporios.
It took no less than three series of goodbye hugs and kisses - spread out across half-an-hour - before he could be finally prised into the car! “When you are friends,” he told us, “you must have lots of kisses!”
So, the sense of departure has now begun and even the sound of the sea breaking on the shore, to which I awoke this morning, has assumed a melancholy note…
Emily Dickinson understood all too clearly why such moments make us feel what as we do when she wrote of the nature of life...

"That it will never come again
is what makes life so sweet..."
[Footprints image: David Weeks]

Unfortunately, time did not stand still and a month has passed even without watching the watch…
Everyone is conscious of our forthcoming departure: George spent some time yesterday evening reflecting on the nature of time and the relative speed or slowness of its passing and Themelis was driven off to Pothia in order to start school today so we have already said farewell to the wild-boy of Emporios.
It took no less than three series of goodbye hugs and kisses - spread out across half-an-hour - before he could be finally prised into the car! “When you are friends,” he told us, “you must have lots of kisses!”
So, the sense of departure has now begun and even the sound of the sea breaking on the shore, to which I awoke this morning, has assumed a melancholy note…
Emily Dickinson understood all too clearly why such moments make us feel what as we do when she wrote of the nature of life...

"That it will never come again
is what makes life so sweet..."
[Footprints image: David Weeks]
Sunday, 10 September 2006
PHILOSOPHICALLY SPEAKING
The Greeks, as they say, have a word for it; in proof of which, Irene Glinatsi occasionally introduces a Greek phrase or saying into the conversation such as, “When the water gets into the stream,” meaning when things settle down into their natural course; or, “It’s only the mountains that never meet,” which is a Kalymnian variation on our more prosaic expression, “It’s a small world…”

When Irene’s eleven-year-old son, Themelis, is not running wild, he is also clearly a born philosopher. As our friend, Gill, was preparing to leave Emporios the other week after her seventh or eighth visit, the youngest Glinatsi announced that, “The puzzle that is Artistico will now be missing an important piece and will not be complete again until Gill returns.”
And, the other day, when I was explaining to Themelis’ father that something that I had said was “a joke”, the lad sagaciously observed: “All life is a joke! We come; we make our little jokes; and then - poof! - Goodbye! See you in the next place!”

When Irene’s eleven-year-old son, Themelis, is not running wild, he is also clearly a born philosopher. As our friend, Gill, was preparing to leave Emporios the other week after her seventh or eighth visit, the youngest Glinatsi announced that, “The puzzle that is Artistico will now be missing an important piece and will not be complete again until Gill returns.”
And, the other day, when I was explaining to Themelis’ father that something that I had said was “a joke”, the lad sagaciously observed: “All life is a joke! We come; we make our little jokes; and then - poof! - Goodbye! See you in the next place!”
Tuesday, 29 August 2006
KALYMNIAN SOUNDSCAPE
There are so many sounds that say Emporios…
Rex barking a welcome or a warning…

Goat bleats and goat bells… The lazy murmuring of bees, the chooky-chook clucking of hens, the twittering arguments of sparrows and the more refined conversations of the susuratha [wagtails*] that hop about the beach...
The rustle of wind in the tamarisk trees and the relentless, mechanical clicking of cicadas…
The clang of Sunday church bells…
The echoed shouts of children playing (or fighting) on the jetty…
The busy chugging to and fro of small boats…
The irritable whine of tourist scooters grizzling into the village, pausing momentarily and then, as like as not, roaring off in search of Somewhere and Something Else…
George’s guitar in the bar… The chatter of diners and drinkers… The occasional conversations of pots and pans in the kitchen…
And, every night and every morning, falling asleep and waking up in the house above Artistico, to the gently lapping rise and fall of the surf…

[* Greeks also use susuratha to describe a girl who walks with a wiggle - or a wag of her tail!]
Rex barking a welcome or a warning…

Goat bleats and goat bells… The lazy murmuring of bees, the chooky-chook clucking of hens, the twittering arguments of sparrows and the more refined conversations of the susuratha [wagtails*] that hop about the beach...
The rustle of wind in the tamarisk trees and the relentless, mechanical clicking of cicadas…
The clang of Sunday church bells…The echoed shouts of children playing (or fighting) on the jetty…
The busy chugging to and fro of small boats…
The irritable whine of tourist scooters grizzling into the village, pausing momentarily and then, as like as not, roaring off in search of Somewhere and Something Else…
George’s guitar in the bar… The chatter of diners and drinkers… The occasional conversations of pots and pans in the kitchen…
And, every night and every morning, falling asleep and waking up in the house above Artistico, to the gently lapping rise and fall of the surf…

[* Greeks also use susuratha to describe a girl who walks with a wiggle - or a wag of her tail!]
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