Monday 21 August 2006


Like all small island communities the world over, Kalymnos understands something most of the rest us have long since forgotten - self-sufficiency.

Late yesterday afternoon, twelve year-old Themelis Glinatsi took his harpoon and went hunting. An hour later, he brought home a scorpion fish which his mother, Irene, cooked for his supper. And that is about as basic as the process of living can get...

As a visitor, you may be forgiven for failing to notice the proximity of Themelis’ fishing expedition to the very primitive instincts that dictated the survival and evolution of Homo sapiens. But you can’t possibly fail to appreciate the pleasure of eating fresh-cooked whitebait that was swimming around the end of Emporios’ little jetty until, half an hour go, when Themelis fished them out and carried them - still flipping and twisting - into the kitchen at Artistico!

There is simply not the ritziest restaurant in London, Paris, Rome or New York that can offer its swankiest patrons with the fattest wallets a dish that is both as simple and yet as rare…

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