David and I first came to Venice in 1998 and from that year until our
visit in 2006 we never saw one of the city's most celebrated landmarks:
the
Torre dell'Orologio, the ornately decorated Renaissance clock tower that stands on the north side of the Piazza San Marco.
Built in the 15th Century, the tower features a carving of the Lion of
Saint Mark, a statue of the Madonna and Christ Child, a vast clock face
marking 24 (not 12) hours, the moon phases and the houses of the zodiac
and is surmounted by a huge bell on which the hours are struck by two
hammer-wielding Moors scantily clad in animal skins.
For the first eight years of our visiting Venice, the clock was under
wraps for restoration and we saw this extraordinary edifice for the
first time in 2006 when the scaffolding finally came down. But it was a couple of years later
that we got to witness a special feature of the clock that is only ever seen twice a year...
During
Ascension Week and on the Feast of Epiphany –
today – the panels to
the right and left of the central statue, which normally display the
hour and minutes in Roman numerals on giant revolving drums, are removed and replaced with
doors that, every hour (from 9:00-5:00) open onto the balcony allowing
elaborate automata figures of a trumpet-tooting Angel and the
gift-bearing Magi to process before the Virgin and Child, tipping their
crowns as they pass.
Here they are in action at 1:00 pm today...
The performance today went a good deal smoother than our first memory of clock-watching in 2008... It was raining at 9 o'clock when the Wise Men and their Angelic Companion made their debut
appearance and apart from a lot of bedraggled pigeons and a
handful of disinterested caribinari, David and I were the only witnesses
to the event; which, as you will see from our video that day, is probably
just as well!
Today is a public holiday and here in Venice, as in all Italy, Epiphany is still commemorated and is a
vital part of the celebrations (at least as far as the children are
concerned) since it is the day signalling the arrival
La Befana – a female counterpart of those Santa Claus/Father Christmas/St
Nicholas characters who feature in the Northern European and American
Christmas festivities...
An old woman riding a broomstick through the air at night, La Befana,
wears a black shawl and carries a sack of sweets and gifts which she
leaves in the stockings that the children hang up for her. She is
covered in soot because – like Santa – she enters the children's houses
via the chimney.
Children who have
not been good during
the year, receive (instead of sweets)
bags of ashes or a lump of coal – nowadays,
black sugar-candy!
Because she's a good housekeeper, Befana always
uses her broom to sweep the floor before leaving. It is polite to leaves
out a small glass of wine for La Befana, together with something to
eat - just as Santa gets all those glasses of milk and mince pies...
One
Christian legend (similar to the Russian tale of
Babushka) tells how La Befana was visited by the three Wise Men,
seeking directions as to where Jesus had been born. The old woman did
not know, but – being a homely, house-proud soul – she gave the
travellers shelter for the night.
The following day,
the Wise Men invited La Befana to join them on their quest, but she
refused saying that she was far too busy with her housework. Then, too
late, she charged her mind and went off in search the the Wise Men and
the Christ Child, but was unable to find them. So it was that – to this
very day – La Befana is searching for them still and, on her travels,
leaves toys and candy for all the good children she finds.
Italian children are warned that if they ever
see
La Befana they'll receive a thwack from her broomstick: a typical adult
ruse to keep youngsters in their beds on Epiphany Eve while parents are
distributing sweets –
or coal – and sweeping the floor.
To mark Epiphany – and the arrival of La Befana – a regatta is held in
Venice every 6 January, with veteran gondoliers (in witchy drag), rowing
up the Grand Canal to a finishing line at the Rialto Bridge.
Traffic on the Grand Canal comes to a halt and everyone crowds the
fondamenta on either side of the Canal. A giant stocking hangs down from
the bridge to mark the winning post and great excitement attends the
race and the presentation of the special Befana-emblazoned pennants
(left) that
are the prizes while everyone – especially (
right) little old Italian ladies – get on with the
really serious business of enjoying hot chocolate, mulled wine and sweet
flaky biscuits called (in the Venetian dialect)
galani...
HAPPY EPIPHANY!